A 6 a.m. start put us across the salt flats in time to see the earth's shadow retreat slowly to the West and a rising sun kiss the summit of Pilot Peak and, ultimately, light up the deliciously incongruous World Tree, just east of the bustling metropolis of Wendover, Nevada ...
Just as "Big Hero 6" on the DVD player must eventually must give way to "The Incredibles," and "Ratatouille," so the limitless horizons of Utah and Nevada must eventually yield to the Ponderosa pines of the Eastern Sierra, and, eventually, the rolling hill country around Redding, California, where we stopped long enough to grab a remarkably good dinner at The Taj Mahal, an Indian restaurant that serves no less than four beef dishes(!) Go figure.
From there we wound our way along the interminably long Route 299, redeemed from its interminably long windyness by the striking topography of the Trinity Alps, the Trinity River Gorge, and the supremely quaint town of Weaverville, which begged to be explored but fell victim to the overriding desire to put our long car suffering to an end and make it to our hotel in Arcata before the pool closed for the night. (First things first on long road trips with family.)
The next morning, we headed over to Eureka to take a gander at the Carson Mansion in Eureka on a mild, sunny morning, with a salt breeze in the air ...
This stop represented a 'coming full circle' moment for the Hawkes Clan, which marked its auspicious start in 1994 with a honeymoon trip beginning in San Francisco and wending up Route 101 to Eureka, where we spent two nights at the Eureka Inn. It seemed a lot fancier then, but maybe we just weren't paying much attention to the architecture ...
One of the more impressive things we saw in Eureka was this orb spider's web, which rivaled the Carson Mansion for its intricate detail.
From Eureka, we headed north to the redwoods, which are best on cool foggy days when the rhododendrons are in bloom. Alas, we were too early for the blooms and cursed(!) with bright, sunny weather. Still, there's nothing quite like the redwoods, which can't help but leave one looking up, awestruck by the sheer weight and presence of these massive trees.
In the redwoods, we experienced everything from Joseph Smith moments ...
To moments of (feigned) quiet contemplation ...
To a bit of monkey see monkey do ...
To interesting things on a decidedly smaller scale ...
And wild animals!
It takes a land lubber to fully appreciate the ocean: its power, its vastness, the ceaseless war of water, earth, and sky. To those who live near it, however, that wildness and mystery fades into the familiar--loved, but not fully appreciated.
Thus, to the locals, Thor's Well (pictured above) is "the toilet bowl," and the magnificent Devil's Churn, "just a bunch of water sloshing around," at least in the words of the lady who runs the snack shop at Cape Perpetua. For a family from land-locked Utah, however, everything from a sea star to an agate on the beach remains the stuff of myth and magic. (And I don't care who you are: the Devil's Churn at midnight on a rising tide, under the light of a full moon, is as sublime an "in nature" experience as one can find anywhere.)
Our next stop was Yachats, near Cape Perpetua, where we spent two nights at a cozy vacation rental called "the Crow's Nest," complete with beds tucked into the nooks below the windows.
The area around Yachats has lots to do and see: hikes through the woods, overlooks high above the coast, tidepools, and agate beaches. Okay, so the entire Oregon coast boasts pretty much the same stuff, but this area was spectacular.
(A spouting horn, Cape Perpetua)
(View from the West Shelter, Cape Perpetua)
(Mary and Christian experiencing an all-too-rare bonding moment.)
(Our three oldest, realizing why it's called 'the Devil's Churn')
At a beach south of Cape Perpetua, Becky came across something that managed to be both cool and depressing at the same time--an empty bottle of "Wonderful-K" detergent. Cool, because it drifted all the way across the Pacific Ocean; depressing, because it likely started its journey via the horrific tsunami that hit Northern Japan in 2012.
The tidepools in this area are great at low tide, with new discoveries around every corner ...
We tend to find sandy beaches ... well ... a bit boring. So the rocky and varied beaches of the Oregon Coast were just what the doctor ordered.
Did I mention we like looking for agates?
And shells?
(Olive snail shells ... one of our favorites!)
And exploring tidepools?
On one of the beaches south of Yachats, we were hit by a brief Spring thunderstorm that included wind, rain, and driving hail.
Fortunately, however, I found my family at the end of the rainbow (even if they happen to be running for the shelter of the car at the moment this picture was taken).
One of our favorite things to do as we moved north was to look for migrating whales at the many overlooks. Initially, we hoped to see one, but it soon became apparent that there are a *lot* of whales moving north this time of year. (We saw dozens, particularly in the southern part of the State.)
Saw a few sea lions too, even without stopping at the Sea Lion Caves ...
And lots of picturesque lighthouses ...
Our longest driving day on the coast proved maybe a bit too far--from Yachats in Central Oregon to Cannon Beach in the far north. Even so, we found time to stop for ice cream at the Tillamook Creamery ...
Stumble across many more new and interesting beaches ...
And spend a delightful hour or so at Hug Point State Park at day's end--a great place for, well, hugs ...
Family photos ...
Photo bombs of family photos ...
And the supremely cool effect one sees on wide sandy beaches just before the light fades to black, when details fade and outlines sharpen and everything's painted in blue, a quiet time for walking and reflection ...
Or maybe just looking for sand dollars, 'cause that's how we roll.
We didn't have much time to spend at Cannon Beach, but did take a stroll down past its iconic sea stack ...
... where we bid farewell to the spectacular Oregon Coast (for now).
Heading north and east we stopped briefly at the Lewis & Clark National Park (cool, but probably not worth a drive unless you're in the area already--we've been spoiled by Ken Burns).
And then headed to a place we most definitely do recommend: the Lan Su Chinese Garden, a serene oasis in the middle of a decaying industrial area in downtown Portland.
After a great dinner at the Tin Shed Cafe in Portland (highly recommended--their happy hour small plates are da bomb), we spent the night in Gresham, and then headed home the next morning through the Columbia River Gorge, replete with hanging clouds and waterfalls around every corner, including the incomparable Multomah Falls.
